Monday, September 14, 2015

Model Horse Photography Tips

Today's post is from guest writer, Courtney Geck! Courtney is a great friend of mine and she volunteered to write up a photography post for us today! She didn't provide many photos so I will put in examples where they are due.

Without further ado, take it away, Courtney!


Model Horse Photography Tips
By Courtney Geck


Hi there, Courtney here! I have always had a camera as far back as I can remember. To me, taking photos is so much more than just taking a simple picture. It's capturing a moment forever frozen in time. As cheesy as that may sound, it's true, it applies to everything you snap a picture of.

Cameras can be tricky and you have a lot to learn depending on what you are using. For years I used a small little point and shoot camera. 

I got my first DSLR (digital single-lens reflex) in 2014. 


It's been tricky, but I am learning. That's the beauty of photography: you never stop learning! 

I decided to start my own business photographing people and animals; best decision I have ever made. I volunteer for ARF (Animal Rescue Foundation) and am named as the Official Photographer. I have done 1 wedding, and a few sessions for co-workers and friends. Enough about boring me! Let's get to the good stuff!

Breyer Photography is fun, and my goal is to make them look as real as possible. I hear a lot of people saying stuff like, "Well I don't have a fancy camera." Honestly you don't need one, yes it helps improve quality but what matters most is perspective. Also, editing software can improve your photography. 

Here are some free programs that do an awesome job!
1. Picasa
2. Photoflitre Studio
3. Gimp
4. Picmonkey
5. Lunapic
5. Photobucket

I, myself, use Lightroom and Photoshop.
Don't let others' photos intimidate you either; this is always something I always hear.

Here is an awesome quote by Jared Padalecki:

 "There’s always gonna be be someone better looking, there’s always gonna be someone smarter, there’s always gonna be someone who works harder. What you have to offer is yourself, so don’t lose it, focus on it and try to bring it out" 

In other words, don't compare your self to others, just be yourself!
Think about it: how big are you, and how big is that little plastic horse? Pretty tiny right? So in order to make the photo realistic, you cant really take it like you're looking down on them right? (Although real life mini micro horses would be amazing, but we can only dream right?!) Here are a few steps that will help:

Step 1: Look at your surroundings, see what you are working with. I try and avoid stuff like houses, mailboxes, vehicles, or other man made-stuff that will make the models appear small and not necessarily look like real horses.
  • Bad backdrop: (Dog butt, shed, giant fence, etc)
  • Passable Backdrop: (Trees seem in scale, foreground cleared out; grass not too tall. Could've cleared the leaves from the background, though)


Step 2: Lighting. Okay, this is a major factor in photographing everything!! Ask yourself, "Where is the best light source coming from?" Try and avoid shadows and dark places. (As an added note: Try not to do back-lit shots on light-coloured OF models. Breyers are hollow and light will pass through them, making them glow. This isn't as big of an issue in darker-coloured OF models and some/most customs, and most solid resins don't glow when back-lit)

  • Bad lighting: (Bad angle, too - don't be afraid to lay on your stomach to take photos! Just make sure you're wearing clothes you don't mind getting wet/dirty)


(Example of the backlit OF Breyer horse compared to a custom grey Breyer horse)



  • Good Lighting: Model is easily distinguished without heavy editing; light direction able to be determined

Step 3: Focus. Please make sure your camera is focused in on the model and not blurred out so that you are not taking pics of blurry horses and in focus backgrounds. To do this lightly hold down the shutter button so you are not pressing it all the way. (DSLRs and bridge cameras also have a manual focus option, which is useful for getting crisp details in one area, such as the face, or making sure the model is fully in-focus.)
  • Bad focus: (and background)

  • Good focus:


Step 4: Perspective. Okay, so there's that word again! I've found that getting down on the ground and getting level with the model is the best way to get a good shot. Also putting your model on a table, roof of your car (don't recommend this, though I have done this a few times;) whatever makes you comfortable!.

This is where a lot of people prefer studio shots with dioramas and backdrops, but you don't need all that! In the one of secretariat [above] I had him on a table. Sometimes, even simply holding the model up works well! Experiment, just remember - unless you're doing a BLM roundup scene and want the helicopter's perspective, get on the horse's level.



Thanks for the post, Courtney! 

Remember, if you have any ideas for future topics and tutorials, feel free to drop me an email or post a comment! 

Over and Out

No comments:

Post a Comment